February 9th, 2014
I am so sure that Puertoricans are getting ready for their weekly trip to the “lechoneras” or pig on a spit local eateries or cuchifrines in the country side. Plenty visitors to the island of Puerto Rico just park themselves on the beach. Believe me, that would be the thing to do after the winter we have had and continue to have in the U.S. But, a visit to this island would not be complete without a sampling or tasting of the local cuisine. It is called “comida criolla” or “comida del pais”.
Puertoricans usually go on Sundays and the “restaurants” can get very crowded, so, the best day would be Saturday. That’s what we did.
We stopped in 3 Lechoneras. Arriving with our stomachs empty and looking forward to so many of those dishes that I have not had in a while. By the time we finished, we were totally satisfied and I was thinking that if I had another morcilla, toston, pork or lechon, chicharrones or crispy fat, bananas, cuajo, rice, it would be too soon.
From San Juan the town of Cayey is about 34 miles or 55 kilometers. It will probably take you about 45 minutes, hoping you do not hit a traffic jam or “tapon”. The town of Cayey is surrounded by La Sierra de Cayey. It is mountainous, with cool weather and foggy mornings, especially in the “winter”. Don’t laugh, it is true, Puerto Rico has its winter. Definitely, much cooler in the months of January and February.
La Ruta del Comelon was iniated by me on this trip. It is for those that like to eat or sample the different foods PR has to offer. Full of spices, and herbs, the “comida criolla” has a special aroma and taste. It is just Puertorican yum!
La Ruta del Lechon or the Pig on a Spit Rute is well known and documented. It is in Guavate which is part of the town of Cayey. The first “Lechonera” we tried was El Cunao which is in the area but not considered a true Ruta del Lechon. Located on Carr. 1, Km 65.4, Cayey, PR. Tel. 787-263-0511.
Some of the Lechoneras can be very simple and others look more like full-fledge restaurants such as El Cuano. It is still run by the same family. It started small and now it is a thriving restaurant. Every Puertorican has a favorite and my cousins thought this was one of theirs.
Richard took care of us and he took me through a tour of their restaurant. The pigs were ready to roast for Sunday and even though you might not like this picture, it needed to be taken because it is how they prepare the pigs for roasting on the spit.
After they are roasted and it does take awhile, then they are carved and ready to eat.
These ladies’ job was to peel plantains for the mofongo and tostones, and green bananas which are cooked in Puerto Rico and eaten as a vegetable and at times in a marinade. Really good!!
On the photo, on the right, is Richard, who also makes the best “pique” and hot sauce.
We decided to share our bounty, due to the fact that this was not the only place where the Ruta del Comelon would take us. Of course, drinks were ordered.
Tostones made out of green plantains, I do love and these ones were perfectly cooked. Thin, crispy, with a soft center and also huge!!
Morcillas are blood sausages with rice. They a bit of bite to them which made them even better. Don’t wrinkle your nose because if you have not tried them, you don’t know what you ar missing.
Cuajito….this is another one that you don’t want to analyze too much but was so good I would go back for more. It is stewed hog maws or the stomach of the pig…the lining of the stomach. It does sounds disgusting but you just have to try it. Next to the cuajito are green bananas cooked and eaten as a side dish.
Roasted Pig…..the top part is the crispy….you got it; the fat. Even thought this first tasting of the roasted pig was very good….the one we all decided was the best was at the last stop….in a later post.
The next table had sat down to enjoy one succulent lunch….and no, I was not stalking them.
Not missing and very much enjoyed was the pique made by Richard.
My brother and his wife….they were ready for the next stop.
On a personal note….my husband who passed away 5 months ago….we met in Puerto Rico and he would have loved my plate….He was a foodie when that word did not even exist. He loved Puertorican food, and my plate would have been much enjoyed by him.
Have a great day!
January 31st, 2014
Playa Los Machos, Ceiba
My last post showed a cold winter day in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware…..Leaving the Delaware Beaches to a warmer climate in the Island of Puerto Rico,where the temperatures are in the 80”s with low humidity, found me tasting the Comida Criolla; the best!
The Ruta del Comelon….that’s us, following the path of those that love food. If you like Puertorican food, then, this post is for you.
Meeting with family and friends….first stop is always a must at the Metropol Restaurant right after getting off the plane.
This restaurant is one of those iconic Puerto Rican eateries where you can get a good taste of the local flavor at the best price.
A little spread was placed on the table.
Loved the octopus salad or ensalada de pulpo the best. It melted in your mouth. Yum!
Breakfast on Friday morning was not the usual bacon and eggs. I am once again staying at Hacienda Pellerano…a private enclave.
Frying some granitos indigenous from the town of La Ciudad Gris or Humacao hit the spot, along with bite size morsels of papaya.
Accompanying the above was one of my favorites….morcillas or blood sausages….I know, I know, they don’t look so appetizing but believe me when I tell you that they are amazingly good.
La Ruta del Comelon took us to the town of Naguabo on the eastern side of the island.
The restaurant of choice was El Makito. We started with the pastelillos de chapin. Chapin is a fish and these turnovers are sought after by anyone visiting the east side of Puerto Rico.
The beer was so cold and was the perfect side dish for our next dishes.
The Mofongo is made out of plantains. Stuffing it is the new craze. So, 3 of them were ordered, stuffed with Salmorejo de Jueves (local crab criollo), Chapin (the little fish), and Conch….shrimp were ordered, as well.
The Caribbean lobster or langosta was served to our fellow diners…I don’t want to be thought of as a food stalker but I guess I was….they let me take the photo. You can see that the side dish of mofongo traditionally prepared is on the right, but then the stuffed one was also served.
And how big were the lobsters at El Makito? You be the judge.
Dessert!! We were looking for casquitos de guayaba, which is a fruit that you do not find it as easily in the island as before, served with cheese. And the other is a dulce de lechoza, which is papaya. Homemade and awesome!!
Hours later, at Hacienda Pellerano, a little “picadera” or “tasting” of pasteles, also made with plantains just like the mofongo. Filled with chickpeas, raisins…it reminded me that we need to really walk on Saturday if we are to continue on La Ruta del Comelon when we will take off for Guavate or La Ruta del Lechon (Pig).
Buen Provecho!!
June 4th, 2010
You are wondering if I am there or here. Well, I am here, at the Delaware Beaches. But, it is like anything. You go on vacation, had a good time and you spread the word. Plus, in our Delaware and Maryland beaches, we have a fair amount of residents that winter in Puerto Rico. These posts might give them a taste of what this Island is all about.
And this post will be about food. Puerto Rican food and its flavors.
We decided to try a restaurant called Raices in the town of Caguas. Caguas is only 20 miles south of San Juan but it might take you an hour to get there, depending at what time or day of the week you decide to travel.
Raices is located on Urb. Villa Turabo, H-31, Caguas. The tel. is 787-258-1570 and the website is www.restauranteraices.com. It is a great website written in English and Spanish. This restaurant also has another location in Old San Juan, on Recinto Sur Street #315. Tel. 787-289-2121. I am reviewing the one in Caguas, though.
I met my family there and decided to go very early to see if I could get some pictures of the restaurant. The restaurant is completely decorated as it would have been in 1949 in the Island, showing what was important at that time. The staff is dressed as the “jibaro” and you really don’t know what I am talking about.
Jibaro is the term used to describe the mountain people, just like hillbillies in the United States. They lived in-land and are the backbone of the Puerto Rican culture. The Jibaro was poor, uneducated and probably illiterate. But, they were honest, hospitable, self-sufficient and most of all, proud. The Jibaro is pretty much gone from the Island but there are some that are still jibaros at heart. Raices memorializes the soul of the Jibaro.
Puerto Rican food is unique; well seasoned, but not spicy unless you add some of home made sauce “pique”.
Cooking with foods of the island like coriander, papaya, plantains, root vegetables, annatto seeds, and the spice called adobo used as a base for many dishes give that “criollo” flavor.
My favorite tropical fruits used in cooking are pineapples, guavas, papayas, mangoes and coconuts; a real treat.
I was looking forward to tasting some of Raices’ food and someone suggested I try the Pork Chop Kan Kan served with Mofongo (plantain mash). It was huge, tasty, delicious and the edges of crispy pork rind probably gave my arteries a shock but worth it.
Pork Chop Kan Kan
I also had the cream of plantain soup and that was outstanding. I would recommend it anytime.
Creme of Plantain Soup
Other members of my family ordered the Tornado which was a skirt steak stuffed with Raices Mash and crowned with shrimp and mushroom and onion sauce.
A few other dishes ordered were served on the Mortar (Pilon) and it was Mofongo (Plantain) served with shrimp, octopus and mahi mahi.
Sangria, freshly squeezed orange juice and drinks were very well received, as well.
Raices gets crowded. On Thursdays, there is live music.
Enjoying lunch with my family; it is a time to exchange ideas and to remember how lucky we are to have each other.
Have a good one and talk to you later….
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