Charleston, South Carolina is known for its Lowcountry cuisine. This type of cooking has influences from the coast and from soul food. Classics like the she-crab soup and the shrimp and grits are some of the offerings I taste as I go from one restaurant to another. Which one is best? As you know that is so personal but so is a blog. My personal experiences!!
Lunch at 82 Queen in Charleston in early March was memorable because of those 2 dishes I mentioned above.
It opened in 1982 and it is considered one of Charleston’s oldest restaurants.
March is a great time of the year in Charleston. Cooler evenings and days are warm, perfect for enjoying an outdoor lunch.
Starting with the French 75. Love this cocktail. I wanted made with Courvoisier because it makes such a difference. Very refreshing.
I was recommended to have the Queen’s Salad which was a mixture of lettuce, grape tomatoes, cucumbers, green onions, sweet corn, field peas, apple wood bacon, hard boiled egg, with a cheddar, buttermilk herb dressing. Starting with a salad and a cocktail, it is perfect for me.
They have been serving the She Crab Soup probably since the restaurant opened so there is perfection in its taste. Here, in Delaware, I don’t see this soup in restaurants. You use the female crab for this tasty soup.
Best of the several ones tasted I decided to look for their recipe. I think I found it and here it goes.
1 cup chopped celery
1/4 cup chopped carrots
1/4 cup chopped onion
1 stick plus 2 tablespoons butter divided
1/2 cup of flour
3 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups fish stock or water and fish base
1/4 lb. crab roe
1 lb. white crabmeat
1/4 sherry
1 tablespoon Tabasco or your preferred hot sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce.
Lightly saute celery, carrots and onion in 2 tablespoons of butter. In a separate pot, melt remaining 1 stick of butter; stir in the flour to make a roux. Whisk in milk and cream until smooth. Bring to a boil. Add sauteed veggies and remaining ingredients. Simmer 20 minutes. Serve and garnish with sherry.
This soup has the consistency of a bisque. The recipe came from Great American Publishers.
The other dish we had was one that has also been made in this restaurant forever. Their Barbeque Shrimp & Grits. Shrimp, stone ground grits, a bourbon-barbeque sauce, applewood baon, cheddar, and scallions.
On this particular trip the Fried Green Tomatoes were offered as starters but I can tell you that if you like to share this one is a nice big portion. I ate it all. It was my total favorite.
Pimento cheese, a must, stone ground-grits the best partner, and tomato bacon jam. The best.
So if you decide to take a trip to Charleston check these restaurants here on AboutMyBeaches. You can put Charleston on the search and see if some of them catch your interest.
AboutMyBeaches has a FB page.
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Eating my way through Charleston. A friend that reads my posts told me she was not going to read them anymore. She was gaining weight just looking at some of the food. I arrived at Cypress which was across my hotel, The Vendue. This is a historic building….but practically a lot of the buildings in downtown Charleston are historic. The location? 167 East Bay Street. Website? http://www.cypresscharleston.com.
You may call for reservations at 843-727-0111. The Mezzanine Bar opens at 5:00 p.m. and the Dining Room opens at 5:30 p.m. You may also make reservations online. The above mentioned website is a wealth of information. You can also read about the chefs, and check out what events are going to be happening in 2016. They will be open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day so please take a look in case you want to take advantage of a relaxing and delicious experience in dining.
Cypress is part of a group of restaurants…Magnolias, Blossom, and Artisan Meat Share. If you are visiting Charleston take a look at them, as well.
Taylor was my server and I have to give a loud shout to her. She knew the menu so well, having tasted most everything from the kitchen. I followed her advice and I could not have been happier.
A little wine and warm bread to the table. Not just a simple bread….the crust was well done and the inside was just perfect and so warm.
An appetizer of Sashimi Tuna & Oysters….what a great combination of flavors. Oysters are in season. It had a ginger-garlic glaze, and pineapple wasabi. Not only did they tasted delicious, the presentation was awesome.
For my entree I was looking at the Crisp Wasabi Tuna. Taylor told me that it was a signature dish, and one that is usually photographed in the magazines. I had to have it because it sounded perfect. The tuna had a crispy outside placed on carrots, turnips, radishes, edamame, shiitake mushrooms, and that fab ginger-garlic glaze once again. I could not get enough of it.
What could my sweet ending be? The Grand Marnier Souffle sounded decadent. It was brought to the table and when the Marnier creme anglaise was poured from above, I was just so happy to have had my camera ready!!
If dining or having drinks on the Mezzanine you will have an advantage bird’s eye view of the kitchen.
Once again many thanks to Taylor for taking care of me.
Eating by myself was just fine. “All four elements were happening in equal measure – the cuisine, the wine, the service, and the overall ambiance. It taught me that dining could happen at a spiritual level.” charlie trotter
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I thought that on this second trip to Charleston I was going to again leave without a sweetgrass basket. I don’t know, to tell you the truth as I was passing plenty of weavers, none hit it where it should have….my heart. Except, that on my last day I grabbed a cup of coffee and went down the street by my hotel, The Vendue, towards the Waterfront Park, which is on Vendue Range. The photo above is exactly what I first saw. I have never met a stranger, so this time I stopped and engaged Trudy Hicks in conversation.
As it happened, Trudy is one of Charleston’s finest sweetgrass basket makers. She was taught as a child and she has passed this art form to her children, grandchildren and plenty of others that want to learn.
Many years ago, before she took over for her grandmother, Trudy had her own hair salon. She has a great spot on this street because the previous mayor of the City of Charleston awarded her this particular station because of her connection to Boone Hall Plantation. Her grandmother is the last living person that lived at Boone Hall. Her aunt had been born there, as well. Once she is finished for the day all she has to do is close the doors. The basket weavers in the market have to take everything down every day and take it home.
Trudy showed me photographs of her family. Also a photo of the first road stand in Mount Pleasant where the first baskets were weaved and sold.
Trudy gives back to the community. The flowers, wreaths, crosses made out of sweetgrass…proceeds go to The House Of Love. She takes children out on field days, and helps in every which way she can.
I think everyone in her family except one of the little ones know how to weave. She tells her daughter to get those little fingers ready!!
Sweet grass baskets are so easy to take care. Since the grasses are from swamps and marsh areas, water will not hurt them. To clean, just spray the basket with cold water and then let them air dry. That’s it. Trudy’s telephone is 843-460-0901. She also ships. So, next time while visiting Charleston stop by and say hello. She will give you a warm smile and plenty of hugs and will really make your day, I promise you, she will. She is one awesome lady.
Love starting Sunday mornings with a proper breakfast: A couple of bowls of confidence with a side dish of Charleston Grits; creamy and stone ground, accompanied with sweet potato corn bread. This tasting left me wanting some more, except it will have to be another time. Looking forward to Fried Chicken & Waffles and, apparently, their Heirloom Tomato Pie is out of this world. Arrive casual, that’s the kind of place it is. Plenty of smiles letting me know that Southern Hospital is taken seriously.
Breakfast is that meal that is a big deal…love it, and enjoy it!! Once you have it you won’t be that hungry at lunch.
Dixie Supply Bakery & Cafe came to my attention while visiting Historic Charleston at the end of February. It is located at 62 State Street, Charleston, SC 29401 Tel. 843-722-5650 On Mondays, they close. The rest of the week they will open from 8 a.m. until 2:30 p.m. Website? http://www.dixiecafecharleston.com/home.aspx
Their menu looked great….you might have to walk Historic Charleston a few times afterwards, though. Their cuisine comes from generations of family recipes. Local seasonal produce is used and also almost everything is made from scratch.
Or, take a seat….that bench looks so good. Relax and enjoy the moment!! Magical Sundays!!
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Always look forward to visiting churches on my travels. Not necessarily on a time when religious services are taking place. I like them when they are totally quiet. For me is a time for reflection; to pray for my family and friends. I usually stop at churches of all denominations, even though I am Catholic. I thank for our religious freedom. Historic churches and chapels…I am in awe of their beauty and of their strength.
Here are some of my favorite churches and the list is getting longer.
NEW YORK
St. Patrick’s Cathedral is a New York Landmark. In 1785 there were only 200 Catholics and one priest in New York City. The doors opened in 1879. The newspapers hailed the New Cathedral as “the noblest temple ever raised in any land to the memory of Saint Patrick, and as the glory to Catholic America”. When I have visited New York with my friend, Shelley, who is Jewish…she always makes a point to stop at St. Patrick’s. So beautiful.
St. Paul’s Chapel was built in 1766. It is the oldest public building in continuous use in Manhattan. It survived the Great Fire of 1776 and the attacks on 9/11. George Washington prayed here after his inauguration in 1789. It is located at 209 Broadway, between Fulton St. and Vesey St. Still standing against all odds, this church has been a place not only for spiritual healing but for physical refuge, as well.
PUERTO RICO
I grew up in the Island of Puerto Rico. When you see my posts from there is because that’s where my formative years took place. Old San Juan is the Capital and it is over 500 years old. La Catedral de San Juan is formally known as the San Juan Bautista Cathedral, named after the Puerto Rican Patron Saint, San Juan Bautista or Saint John the Baptist. It is located on Cristo St. between Luna St. and San Francisco St. It was built in 1540 and it is the second oldest cathedral in the Western Hemisphere. The Cathedral contains the tomb of Spanish explorer, Ponce de Leon. And, the mummified remains of Roman Christian Martyr, Saint Pio.
Capilla del Cristo or Christ’s Chapel is located at the end of Calle del Cristo, which is also where the Cathedral is located. The Chapel was built to commemorate a miracle. Local lore has it that as a young man lost control of his horse and galloped down Calle del Cristo over the cliff at the end of the road, he prayed to a Catholic saint and his prayers were answered.
Parroquia San Francisco de Asis is located at San Francisco Street #301 in Old San Juan. The Crypt – As in old colonial churches, the remains of Christians were buried in catacombs. This can also be seen at the entrance of the Parish. They are called catacombs similar to the Roman catacombs but they are crypts. In the crypt are the remains of personalities of Puerto Rico. They are considered of important historical heritage.
Iglesia Dulce Nombre de Jesus is located in the town plaza of Humacao. This is where I grew up. It is on the eastern side of the island. I went to primary school at Academia San Jose which was across the street. My family went to church here, my parents were married in this church, and I also made my First Communion there. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Originally, it was a single structure built in 1769. A second church was built from 1825-1826. The present church was built in 1868-1877. It was designed by Don Evaristo de Churruca in the Gothic Revival style. Further renovations have taken place since then.
Parroquia Nuestra Senora del Carmen is located at 33 Marina, in Punta Santiago near my hometown, Humacao. Punta Santiago is a fishing village. Nuestra Senora del Carmen is the patron saint of Fishermen. The official Feast Day is July 16th. I have fond memories of this church. It is always kept in pristine condition. My late husband, John, and I got married here. We chose this church because it was on the beach and it really is pretty, small and cozy. It was the second wedding….first one in Orlean, Virginia and then this one in 2 complete different years. One was not enough!!
SHOWELL, MARYLAND, EASTERN SHORE
Saint Martin’s Historic Church and the importance of historic preservation. For so many years it stood neglected, just waiting for those who would take over the mission of its restoration. It is considered by many historians “to be the finest preserved, most significant piece of American history on the Lower Eastern Shore”. It is an Architectural gem, built in 1756, and a museum located at 11413 Worcester Highway in Showell, Maryland. For more info., please visit http://www.historicstmartinschurg.org.
LEWES, DELAWARE
St. Peter’s Church is located at 2nd & Market Streets in Historic Lewes, Delaware. Lewes is the First Town in the First State. Since 1680 this church has served this community. The early settlers who were members of the Church of England formed its first congregation. The graveyard which surrounds the Church has stones dating back to 1707. Stop by while strolling Lewes.
BALTIMORE, MARYLAND
The Baltimore Basilica’s is America’s First Cathedral. I have a deep connection to Baltimore. My late husband was from Baltimore and many years ago, I lived and worked in Baltimore. Love the City. The Basilica’s construction started in 1806. George Weigel, the biographer for Pope John Paul II said “No other Catholic edifice in America can claim to have seen so much history inside its walls”. At least 15 saints or potential saints have prayed in this Basilica. The Crypt inside the Basilica holds the tombs of Archbishop John Carroll, the first Bishop of the United States of America, Archbishop Martin John Spalding, and James Cardinal Gibbons.
PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA
Philadelphia has 4 Catholic shrines: St John Neumann, St. Katherine Drexel, Miraculous Medal and St. Rita of Cascia. Philadelphia is considered a city where the foundations for our right to freedom and religion were laid. The National Shrine of St. Rita of Cascia is located at 1166 S. Broad St. and it was built in 1907. I came to know it during my stay in Philadelphia the summer of 2013.
CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA
St. Michael’s Catholic Church is located at 71 Broad St. in Historic Charleston. A National Historic Landmark. Pewes are made of native cedar and remain the same as they have always been. The altar is Victorian. The chancel rail is made of wrought iron. It dates to 1772. George Washington worshipped at Governor’s Pew #43. This church is gorgeous and the docent was so amazingly inspiring.
St. Philip’s Protestan Episcopal Church is located at 142 Church St. in Historic Charleston. The original building was completed in 1724, destroyed by fire in 1835 and finished the rebuilding in 1838. Porticos and columns remind visitors of Roman porticos. This church is also a National Historic Landmark and has the tallest steeple in Historic Charleston. The docent was so nice and proud of her church.
I am looking forward to this list getting longer. These churches welcome us all. Many of them are so simple. Some are architectural wonders. You don’t really have to look for them, some times they find you.
Another magical Sunday….but waiting for summer is what I am doing.
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The Edmondston-Alston House was the first house museum we visited in rainy Historic Charleston the last week of February. It is called Edmondston-Alston because Edmondston was the first owner who built this beautiful home in East Battery. He was a successful merchant. Financial depressions got the best of him and he had to sell….the new buyer was Alston, who was a member of one of the wealthiest rice-planting families in South Carolina. The house is very open and, definitely worth seeing. This house museum is administered by the Middleton Place Foundation who also owns and operates the Gardens, House and Plantation Stableyards at Middleton Place.
In the back of the Edmondston-Alston House there is a privately-owned luxury bed and breakfast. These were the servants’ quarters. Guests of 21 East Battery Bed and Breakfast enjoy a complimentary tour of the Edmondston-Alston House museum. For more information, please visit http://www.21eastbattery.com. Tel. 843-556-0500
Historic Charleston is full of antique wrought iron. There are accents pieces and intriguing openings.
My cousin, Maru, her husband, and I were standing at the Concierge Desk talking to our favorite concierge, Carrie. She loved us because we did what she told us to do. So, now we were telling her we wanted to visit Middleton Place. This plantation has the oldest landscaped gardens in America…plus there was the connection to the Edmondston-Alston House, which we had earlier in the week visited. How could you visit Charleston and not go to a plantation?
We told Carrie that we did not want to go in a bus full of people. We were tourists but we would only go so far. We wanted a private guide. No hesitation, Ian Sanchez, would be the one. Carrie went on and on about how good of a guide he was and how good looking….OMG she said “You are going to love him”. During this conversation, Maru’s husband was like….”I don’t care if he is good looking.” Maru and I were like…We do! He was quickly outnumbered. We even had to wait an extra day to go with Good Looking Guide Ian. We hoped he was worth the wait…and not like the coconut cake; they told us so much how good the coconut cake was that once we tried it, was not a big deal…it was okay, though.
We finally met with Ian Sanchez….he was good looking but not drop dead gorgeous as we were expecting. He spoke Spanish. I believe one of the parents was from the Dominican Republic and the other from one of the islands. Needless to say…Latin looks and southern charm work every time; we liked that! And so we took off with him. He was a really good guide. He took his time in explaining Charleston and its history, knowledgeable, very friendly and easy to understand.
To escape the summer’s heat, the wealthy left their stately homes in Charleston and retreated to their plantation houses. These plantations had formal gardens backed by rivers and woodlands.
Middleton Place is located at 4300 Ashley River Rd., Charleston, SC 29414. Tel. 843-556-6020 Website? http://www.middletonplace.org. Please visit the website for events happening at Middleton Place. We arrived late in the afternoon, so one of our first stops was to tour the only building that is still in operation as a museum. There were 3 residences at one time. The original residence was circa 1705 and the north flanker was circa 1755…these were burned by Union troops in 1865, and then leveled by the 1886 earthquake. The house museum was a gentlemen’s guest wing in 1755. It contains family furniture, silver, paintings, china, books and documents.
I think you should give yourselves more than a few hours to tour the plantation….there is much to see and much to learn.
Eliza’s House dates to 1870 and its 2 family vernacular dwelling provides information regarding the conditions of the African American community at Middleton Place before and after the Civil War.
We stopped at the Blacksmith Shop, where iron was being heated, forged and shaped. Middleton Place had both, free and enslaved workers performing different tasks.
Carpentry and Coopering …building and repairing, the coopers made barrels for storage and shipment of rice.
Free range…animals were mingling with the guests.
The Spring House and Plantation Chapel were beautiful. On the lower level, the spring waters provided the perfect place to store dairy and other foods. The upper floor was, apparently, added in 1851 and was used as a chapel for the Middletons’ slaves until the Civil War.
The Mill…It was before the Civil War that the mill was built. Built both as a garden folly and for practical use.
The gardens have rational order, geometry, symmetry, balance, vistas, focal points and surprises.
After the Civil War and the Earthquake of 1886 these gardens were overgrown and neglected. Early in the 20th century restoration began and in 1941 the Garden Club of America gave its highest award by recognizing them as “the most interesting and important gardens in America”.
It is a little unkempt, and a little wild, when looking at the rest of the formal gardens…family tomb and burial sites. The last resting place of generations of the Middleton family…the garden called Bosquet and Tomb.
Notes: Ian Sanchez can be contacted by calling 843-276-4601. You may also email him at iansanchez4@gmail.com. Do you prefer your tour in English, or Spanish? You pick because he can do both. His pledge: “Guaranteed phenomenal tour every time or you don’t pay!!
Information for this post was taken from Middleton Place tour guide info.
Have a good one!! Talk to you later…
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I have been in Rehoboth Beach….waiting for Spring. Finally, the sky is blue, but that chill in the air is most definitely still there. I don’t know what happened but my week in Historic Charleston, South Carolina, was grey, a bit rainy, and cool.
My friends asked me if I had bought one of the sweetgrass baskets. Not yet…another trip, perhaps. Could not make up my mind.
The baskets are made of sweetgrass, long leaf pine needles, bulrush and Palmetto tree leaves. This type of basket weaving is one of the oldest crafts of African origin in America. Each is an original piece, revealing the skill of the individual designer. With proper care sweetgrass baskets will last a lifetime.
If you follow my blog, you are well aware that I do take lots of photos. I think people are more visual, plus I like doing it. When taking pictures you have to be sensitive to others whether you are in a restaurant or other public place or taking the photos of the weavers, like I did. I asked for permission, and they did give it to me. On the next photo, he was only taking care of the booth at the City Market for his mother, Celestine Wilson.
This next sweetgrass basket weaver was right at the main entrance of the City Market. It takes her hours to finish a basket. They are labor intensive. It is getting harder to get the grasses. Some travel to Jacksonville to get them. Most basket weavers sign their work on the bottom. The ones I had the opportunity to speak to said that with them it started when they were very young. That they would take a seat in their home’s living room and one of them would start weaving, then pass it on to the next member of the family for inspection and so on and so on until the mother or grandmother would inspect it one last time. While weaving, all would talk about the day’s ongoings. One of them said that even to this day…when her children come to visit for the holidays or what not…this is a “pastime” that they all do together.
The care for the sweetgrass baskets is pretty simple and easy. Since the grasses used are found in swamp and marsh areas, the water will not hurt them. Use a soft brush or cloth, carefully washing them in soapy water. Rinse, then, air dry them completely. That’s all!
Charleston City Market is recognized as one of the oldest in the country. The land must remain in use as a market for perpetuity. It is located at 188 Meeting St. Many of the local vendors are displaying and selling their goods at the City Market. The Market opens every day. They only close on December 25th. Please visit http://www.thecharlestoncitymarket.com.
And when the sun came up on Monday, March 2nd and the temperatures climbed to 70 degrees….I had to take this photo!!
EVENT: The Sweetgrass Cultural Arts Festival will take place at the Memorial Waterfront Park in Mount Pleasant, SC on Saturday, June 6, 2015. More info? http://www.sweetgrassfestival.org. Tel. 843-856-9732
Have an awesome day!!
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I am crushed that Fried Green Tomatoes…..not a Southern dish. That they, apparently, entered the American culinary scene in the Northeast and Midwest, with a link to Jewish immigrants. I love them and when I see them on menus, I do order them. Having been in Charleston, I tasted them everywhere I could. But, let me tell you that, here, at the Delaware Beaches, we have some pretty awesome ones served at our local restaurants.
Looking forward to my fig tree this year. Not just to eat figs off the tree but to also prepare my Fried Green Tomato, Fig, Bacon, Corn Stack….It is my own recipe; not begged, borrowed, or stolen. You can get the recipe by clicking on the month of August of 2013 on the archives of AboutMyBeaches and scrolling down to the 11th.
In Rehoboth Beach, Delaware:
FINS ALE HOUSE & RAW BAR on Coastal Highway. I just had these the other day. They were delicious and hopefully, they will keep them on the menu.
BLUE MOON located on Baltimore Avenue in Downtown Rehoboth Beach. This is a signature appetizer. The fried green tomatoes are served with herbed sheep’s cheese, onion, compote, pesto and a balsamic drizzle. Definitely, a blending of flavors.
In Bethany Beach, Delaware:
PATSY’S RESTAURANT in Downtown Bethany Beach. Her fried green tomatoes are topped with roasted red pepper/Vermont cheddar cheese spread with fresh basil pesto and balsamic reduction.
Cape Charles, Virginia’s Eastern Shore:
AQUA AT KINGS CREEK MARINA in Cape Charles serves a Fried Green Tomato BLT Salad…smoked bacon and mixed greens, tossed with a roasted tomato vinaigrette.
Historic Charleston, South Carolina:
TBONZ in Historic Charleston had these great fried green tomatoes….they went in my burger.
SOUTHEND BREWERY & SMOKE HOUSE, located in Downtown Charleston had never had anyone topped their pizza with fried green tomatoes. Of course, pimento cheese was included. The pizza did not wow me here. But, the combination of pizza and fried green tomatoes was pretty good.
LOWCOUNTRY BISTRO, located in Historic Charleston has a great Ambrose Farms Spinach Salad….an addition of Fried Green Tomatoes made it just perfect.
A.W. SHUCK’S – We stopped here with our Culinary Tour (post in the making)….the praline butter on the fried green tomatoes was delish.
TOAST, located on Meeting St. had their fried green tomatoes with sweet pepper relish.
The following recipe is soooooo good. You can serve it with roast beef, chicken, or even in a sandwich. It takes some time to make but once in the jars you can store them for a long time. Give it as presents to special friends.
MERRYMAN’S GREEN TOMATO PICKLE
1 peck (8 quarts or approx. 20 lbs of small green tomatoes
6 red peppers
12 large onions
5 tablespoons celery seed
5 tablespoons mustard seed
1/2 gal. cider vinegar
3 lbs. light brown sugar
1 cup salt
Slice the tomatoes and onions very thin. Cut peppers into thin strips. Place alternatively (some tomato, some onion, some peppers) in layers in a large bowl, sprinkling salt over each layer.
Let mixture sit for several hours or overnight to draw out liquid.
Squeeze the pickle dry and place in a large kettle. Pour vinegar, sugar, mustard seed and celery seed over pickle.
Cook slowly until onion is clear and tomato is almost transparent. One to two hours. Check and stir often.
Place in sterilized jars and seal.
Note: It is usually served in my house during the Holiday Season. It is an old Merryman recipe.
Have a good one!!
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