September 28th, 2010
Once again I found myself traveling to the island of Puerto Rico. I have told you that I grew up here and coming back stirs all kinds of emotions. This time I flew from Baltimore, Maryland, and the flight was quiet; that was strange because loud is more like it should have been.
The airport in San Juan was quiet, as well, and the luggage was on time. What was going on? I hope this Island of Enchantment was not changing.
That was just a little teaser, soon enough there were the traffic jams, the loudspeakers on top of cars; I don’t know what they were announcing since elections are not at this time. Potholes, many, as well as crowded streets.
But then, as I unpacked and went on a walk with Margie on the beach in Isla Verde, I smelled it again. It was that smell; only indigenous to this Caribbean Island; salitre. It is that salt mixed with seaweed and I don’t know what else but brings so many good memories of growing up in Puerto Rico.
The palm trees and the coconuts on this stretch of beach are particularly beautiful. I think it is funny that if you live here you do not notice the scenery, but it is only when you are away that you learn to appreciate it.
I am the best public relations spokesperson for the Puertorican Piraguas. They are the best, truly delicious. The moment I saw the cart in Ocean Park I stopped and I had one with cream, tamarind and frambuesa. I have a picture but it will come in the next post. I am traveling today. Just watching the “piraguero” do his thing; shaving the ice and pouring the syrups was priceless, to me.
A surprise birhtday party, a family reunion, seeing old friends again, eating chicharrones de pollo, walking on Ashford Ave., yes, it has been a nice week-end.
I am thinking that there are a lot of things that need to improve in this island. The economy for once and with that improving, maybe the crime situation can be improved as well.
But, no, I don’t want anything else to change including the traffic jams, potholes, and the crowded streets. Afterall, it is what makes the island; it would not be Puerto Rico without all these imperfections.
I will talk to you later….hasta luego…nos vemos….
May 29th, 2010
I forgot to tell you that part of the services available at Hacienda Pellerano was my own driver. He was at my disposal, as long as he could juggle his schedule, which he did. He knew all the ins and outs of this island.
In the island of Puerto Rico any road takes you to a beach or to a chinchorro or friquitin. There are really no long distances.
You are wondering what chinchorros are. Well, both chinchorros and friquitines are informal eateries that are found all throughout the island. I would equal them to the diners, dives and holes in the walls in the United States.
Anyone on the island will tell you in Spanish that “Chinchorros son donde se come bueno de verdad.” (Where you can really eat well.)
At the chinchorros and friquitines you will find “Cocina Criolla” which is a unique blend of different influences that even though similar to Latin American and Spanish cuisines, has a flavor that is its own.
Check the website www.elchinchorreo.net, which was established in Moca in 2009 and has all kinds of information about the well known chinchorros and the ones about to be discovered.
One of the trips to the interior side of the island took us to to the north coast near Dorado and Vega Baja where we decided to stop at Melao, Melao El Coco Embalsamao. Of course we were in need of a cold and sweet coconut. At that time of the day it was getting hot.
I would consider this more of a friquitin. You stop, have something to drink, wether you want your coconut spiked, that is your choice as well. Want a bite to tie you over, well that can be arranged too. These eateries are used by anyone traveling from one destination to another. Need a hat? They have it. El Melao Melao was so clean and the owner was very friendly. My driver knew him.
We were in route to the town of Orocovis, which really, is the center of Puerto Rico.
On our way, of course we had to stop to check out La Cascada, after the town of Morovis. Another friquitin was just adjacent to it. The waterfall was beautiful and definitely another Kodak moment.
The island of Puerto Rico has so much to offer. The topography of the island is so diversed. You might be at the beach and then just under an hour you are at the mountains where the temperature will fall about 10 degrees and then you can be to a desert like valley in no time, as well. It really is incredible.
Our driver liked to stop and check all the “colmados”. Off again to the Mirador of Villalba. This is the area where you can see both coasts; both oceans, the Atlantic and the Caribbean at the same time. But, on that particular day, it was cloudy and hazy so the view could not be appreciated the way it should have been.
After chatting with some other people we found enjoying the same views, we took off on PR 151 (not proof). A very curvy road to the town of Villalba, and then to Juana Diaz to the town of the Three Wise Men. Juana Diaz is in the southern coast and during the Christmas holidays, on January 6, the Epiphany is celebrated right in the middle of the town. The celebration of the Three Wise Men visiting Jesus is a must if you are visiting Puerto Rico at that time of the year. Also Juana Diaz is known as the City of Mabi, which is a fermented drink made out from the bark of the Mabi tree. The festival is in March.
My next friquitin was on the north coast of the island and very near San Juan. It was not on this particular day, but that area is full of friquitines and on a week-end it is packed. The beaches are beautiful and one cove that I thought was gorgeous on a late afternoon was the beach of Vacia Talega. You can see the city from that point of view but the feeling is that you are really so removed from it.
Vacia Talega
The Taino was where my coconut was waiting for me. Located in Pinones, where all those beachside eateries are in abundance, around the corner from San Juan and in another of those scenic routes. Again, the water was so sweet and the “tela” or meaty part once the coconut when opened was soft and tasty. A little alcapurria (fritter) and an empanadilla hit the spot.
On the eastern side of the island, in Maunabo, there is a restaurant called El Nuevo Horizonte, with their own little friquitin. It is more for drinks but the view is just beautiful.
It was late when we arrived at Hacienda Pellerano. No wonder this Island is called La Isla del Encanto, or, The Island of Enchantment.
Talk to you later…..
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